Quality of Light

Art 160: Basic Black and White Photography

Quality of Light

Equipment Needed: Camera, minimum of 1 roll of ISO 400 film

Make the quality of light the focus of your photographs. Look for patterns of light and situations where you are more conscious of the light than the actual object or scene.

Make sure you Bracket!!!

Remember that the presence of strong light often means that there will be serious or strong shadows. Experiment with at least 10 – 15 frames making images where you are not sure if the photograph will accentuate the shadows or the light casting the shadows. Bring your exposed roll of film with contact sheet to class on Wednesday the 10th of February.

Some lighting conditions to consider:

reflected/absorbed soft/harsh

bright/diffused dawn/dusk

early morning/late afternoon

high noon/overcast midday

abstractions/patterns made by light front, back, and side light

Do not use you flash for this assignment!

Use only ambient/available light (this may include sun, lamps, overhead lights, etc..)

Requirements for Assignment:

At least 1 roll of film

A contact sheet

Quality of Light

Highlights

Highlights are the lightest areas on the objects. Notice how the highlights appear on shiny

objects, on glass, on light objects and on dark objects. Notice where on an object the

brightest highlights appear and how they go from highlight to shadow. Does the light end

sharply or does it gradually blend into deeper tones? How does the

light change as you move the object around, or as you move around the object?

Patterns made by light - reflection in water, trees, glass, atmosphere (haze, pollution, dust, varying degrees of precipitation)

The direction, quantity, color, and quality of the light you use determines how your subjects appear. Daylight and sunlight are not a constant source, because they change hourly and with the weather, season, location, and latitude. This unstable light can alter the apparent shapes, colors, tones, and forms of a scene. The direction of light changes as the sun moves throughout the day. The shape and direction of shadows are always changing, and the different directions of sunlight greatly influence the appearance of a scene.

The quality of sunlight depends on its power and path. Strong, direct sunlight is "hard" because it produces dark, well-defined shadows and brilliant sometimes blown-out highlights. Sunlight is brutal on clear summer days at noon. Strong sunlight makes strong colors more brilliant, but weak colors pale. Sunlight is diffused by haze, mist, overcast, and pollution in the air. This diffused or reflected light is softer; it produces weak, soft shadows and dull highlights. Directionless, diffused sunlight is often called "flat" lighting because it produces fine detail but subdues or flattens form. Fragile, directionless sunlight provides vibrant, well-saturated colors.

Exciting effects can be achieved by changing the angle your shooting which will influence the light falling on your subject. As you turn your subject, change the light falling on your subject or wait for the sun to move, the light may fall more on one side, and more shadows may be cast on the opposite side of the subject. For pictures in which texture is important, side lighting is ideal.

soft – subtle, diffused light

broad sources: diffused or reflected

flat or weak

overcast or open shade

absorbed or obstructed

dawn or dusk

farther away

harsh – hard light with distinct shadows

directional sources: side, front or behind subject

contrasty or bold direct sun light

bright or intense midday

closer to subject

more information on quality of light:

http://www.davideaves.co.uk/PhotoTips/AvailableLight.html

http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/shooting/quality-of-light.html

http://www.ted.photographer.org.uk/photoscience_lighting.htm

http://pages.cthome.net/rwinkler/light.htm

Ray-o-grams

MAN RAY

Emmanuel Radnitzky (August 27, 1890 – November 18, 1976)

Emmanuel Radnitzky & Salvador Dali

Man Ray, born Emmanuel Radnitzky (August 27, 1890 – November 18, 1976), was an American artist who spent most of his career in Paris, France. Perhaps best described simply as a modernist, he was a significant contributor to both the Dada and Surrealist movements, although his ties to each were informal. Best known in the art world for his avant-garde photography, Man Ray produced major works in a variety of media and considered himself a painter above all. He was also a renowned fashion and portrait photographer.

Man Ray, Le Violon d'Ingres, 1924
Epreuve gélatino-argentique montée sur papier

RAY-0-GRAMS
or sometimes called PHOTO-Grams

The technology of photography was one of the favorite media of the Dada artist Man Ray; his inventive technique of placing objects on light-sensitized paper as in his Rayogram, (1922), showed the abstract possibilities of photograph. He was always exploring new mechanical ideas and "his crisp and ethereal photographs and maliciously witty objects were a revelation" (Gale 197).

"When I saw I was under attack from all sides, I knew I was on the right track."
-Man Ray

“I do not photograph nature. I photograph my visions.”

–Man Ray

A creator needs only one enthusiast to justify him

–Man Ray

An original is a creation motivated by desire. Any reproduction of an originals motivated be necessity. It is marvelous that we are the only species that creates gratuitous forms. To create is divine, to reproduce is human.
–Man Ray


All critics should be assassinated.

–Man Ray

Don't put my name on it. These are simply documents I make.
–Man Ray

I paint what cannot be photographed, that which comes from the imagination or from dreams, or from an unconscious drive.
–Man Ray

I photograph the things that I do not wish to paint, the things which already have an existence. -Man Ray

It has never been my object to record my dreams, just the determination to realize them.
-Man Ray

Of course, there will always be those who look only at technique, who ask 'how', while others of a more curious nature will ask 'why'. Personally, I have always preferred inspiration to information.
-Man Ray

One of the satisfactions of a genius is his will-power and obstinacy.

-Man Ray

To me, a painter, if not the most useful, is the least harmful member of our society.

-Man Ray

RAY-O-WANNABEES
but still pretty cool....










Student projects

What happens in the tank during development

When you expose film to light, by opening the shutter, the light reacts with the light-sensitive silver-halide particles in the film emulsion. At this point, the reaction is invisible. The film must be developed in order for the reaction to be visible. The film is developed using a chemical developer, which turns the exposed silver-halide particles into a black metal (silver). The film stays in the developer for the correct time to turn the right amount of halides into silver. The dark areas in the original image will have the least amount of silver on the film, and appear transparent. The lighter areas, conversely, will have the most silver. This effect is why the developed film is called a negative. In order to stop the development process, water is used. It neutralizes the effects of the developer. At this point the film is developed, however the image is not permanent, there are still unexposed silver-halides in the emulsion. If these particles are exposed to light, they will turn into silver quickly. The film has to be made permanent, this is done with a chemical fixer. The fixer attaches itself to the unexposed silver-halides, preventing them from reacting to the light. The final stop is to remove all traces of the chemicals in a wash step. If fixer is left on the film, it will eventually stain the image. There are additives, like Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, which can speed up the wash process. After washing, the film must dry.



































To develop film you'll need:

* Running water
* Chemical Manufacturer Specifications
* Measuring beakers
* Place where you can mix liquids
* Very accurate thermometer, and a method of temperature control
* Funnels
* Storage Bottles
* Developer
* Fixer

Read the time chart on the side developer container to determine your film, time, temperature combo. Photo developing chemicals can be hazardous, particularly in concentrates, so always use with care.

1. Measure a certain amount of water at a specific temperature - BEST AT 68 degrees -it's usually easier to have the water hotter than the required temperature and let it cool down, or even use an ice cube to lower the temp (remove the ice cube when the water reaches the right temperature)
2. Measure a certain amount of concentrate. 1:1- 1 reel tank = 8oz.
3. When the temperature of the water is at the specified temperature, pour in the concentrate, stirring constantly.

This is the general process, always be sure of your film, temperature, developer combo is correct before proceeding. Use the thermometer during the mixing of chemicals to make sure that you are following the manufacturers recommendations - read the labels.

Starting to Develop
Gather together:

* A film processing tank and one 35mm reel for each roll you will develop. Some people prefer plastic tanks and reels.
* A scissor, to cut the film.
* Measuring graduate(s), to measure the correct amount of chemicals for your film.
* An accurate thermometer, to determine the temperature of your chemicals and the correct developing times.
* Film clips or wooden spring-type clothes pegs, to hang your film to dry.
* A can opener to open your film canister.
* An accurate timer to time your processing - this can be a watch with a second hand. Some people prefer to use their phones
* A light proof room, closet or changing bag.
* Developing chemicals - Developer, Fixer, water

Preparing to Develop Black and White Film

1. For this step you need: Loaded tank, chemicals, water, and a thermometer. This is the critical step in developing Black and White film. Using the wrong amount of chemicals, or the wrong temperature or time will adversely affect your film. Most developers have an optimum temperature. The developer we use - D76 is rated for 68 degrees.
2. REMEMBER- the four most important aspects to film development are:
3. TIME
4. TEMPERATURE (Usually 20°C or 68°F)
5. AGITATION
6. and DILUTION (Generally 1:1)
7. Mix the chemicals according to the manufacturers instructions (1:1). Pour the correctly diluted solutions your developing tank - make sure you have the right amount for your tank - it's listed on the instructions. It is best to use the same temperature every time, for consistency, rather than adjusting the time for different temperatures.
















Developing Step
1. Fill the tank with water roughly the tempurture of your developer and pre-soak you film to "wake it up" for processing. Tap the tank on a hard surface - helps to dislodge any air bubbles.
2. When you are absolutely sure the developer is at the right temperature pour it in your tank at a slight angle - start the timer set according to development chart.
3. Agitate for the first 30 seconds
4. Continue agitating at regular intervals throughout the developing stage. I suggest agitating for the first 30 seconds, then each minute thereafter, at the top of the clock for about 10 seconds.
5. The most important part about agitation is to do it the same way every time. Some people say I over agitate, but it's the way I started, and I do it consistently for the first minute.
6. At the end of the time, based on the development chart to start, later you will refine your developing time, remove the outer cap (ONLY!) and pour the developer out, either down the drain with running water or back into the original beaker for later disposal.

Water bath
1. Pour the H20 into the tank, through the hole in the inner lid, then put the outer lid on.
2. Agitate continuously for 30 seconds. But don't forget to invert and bang.
3. Remove the outer lid, and pour out the chemicals.

Fixer
1. Pour the fixer into the tank from the container clearly marked FIX, through the hole in the inner lid, then put the outer lid back on. Be sure to make a hash mark on the continer for every roll of film you develop.
2. Agitate. I agitate for about 20 seconds, then every minute for about 10 seconds.

1. At the end of the manufacturers recommended time - 5 mins for normal film, 10 mins for T grain film. Remove the lid (it's now safe to remove the whole lid if you want), and pour the chemistry back in the container. DO NOT POUR FIX DOWN THE DRAIN!!

Fix down the drain = Dead fish

Rinse and Hypo
1. Remove the inner lid.
2. Run water into the tank. I like to run water for about 15 seconds.
3. Fill tank with Hypoclear and agitate consistantly for 2 minutes.
4. Pour Hypoclear back into the correct container, be careful not to mistake FIX and HYPO bottles.

Washing
1. Place film in Turbo washer - turn on water to create bubbling, think champaine not fish
filter.
2. Wash film for 5 minutes. CLEAN-UP WHILE YOUR FILM IS WASHING!
3. *Be sure to never add film to wash once initial cycle has started.

Photo-flo (LFN)
1. Empty the tank, and take the film over to the wetting agent area (Kodak Photo Flo).
2. Put the reel(s) in the wetting agent according to the recommendations (30 seconds).
3. Remove the reel from the tank.
4. Slowly pull the film off of the reel.
5. Using your fingers as a squeegee, ever so gently, squage your film to remove any water droplets.
6. RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO LOOK AT FILM WHILE WET, unless you like dust.
7. Weight the bottom of the film, with clothes pin, or film clip. Be careful to not scratch the negatives, they are very soft at this point.
8. Hang in the drying cabinet - open the door very slowly as not to create a vacuum.
9. RELAX... film takes about 20-30 minutes to dry. Weather permitting.

Storing
1. Remove the weight from the bottom of the film.
2. Count up 5 frames, cut between the 5th and 6th frame. 5 frames fits across an 8" sheet of paper, and fits into negative sleeves.
3. Put each strip into a separate negative sleeve.
4. Label the sleeve with a sharpie
5. Keep cutting into 5 frame lengths until you've cut the entire length of film.
6. NEVER LEAVE ONE FRAME AT THE END, better to have at least 2 frames next to each other.